MOSCOW

To sum up - we had an amazing 2 1/2 week stay in Moscow - all thanks to the cool people we stayed with and met there. We had made some contacts at No Borders but we weren't quite ready for the warm and friendly hospitality and fun times in Russia. We arrived in time for the weekend, Friday was a big party night which would set the scene for the next few weeks, drinking and music and chatting in the kitchen.. We were staying at Dodik and Lida's flat which was also a focal point for a whole bunch of friends, the place was always full of people coming and going. On Saturday we were keen to get out and see Moscow, even though we were advised against it due to it being the cities 860th Birthday.. 'it'll be crazy! be careful!' we were warned, but went anyway, with our pal Shurik. Indeed the central city was packed with people and police. We met her mates at their flat and then went to see Red Square. Had to pass through 2 metal detectors and it really was a sea of people, never-the-less our first views of the Kremlin and Red Square and St Basils Church (the ice-cream cone one) were pretty cool!

Later on in the evening we went to a nearby park to meet up with more friends and quietly enjoy a few beers. Again we were advised to be discrete and the cops can be heavy esp with the holiday and all, but things were merry enough and we were enjoying hanging out with Moscow locals when Tabs pulled out the vodka - just as some special police came round the corner! It was pretty scary there for a bit, initial fines of 2000 Euros were mentioned!! But some smooth talking and explaining eventually let us away with nothing, and we kept the vodka (which quickly went into the juice bottle!). This was our speedy introduction to Russian police and social control. Living in the country comes with a lot of state oppression, that being the least of it I'm sure.

Monday came and it was time to get cracking on the visa and registration missions... To the Chinese Embassy but already closed, when we returned on Tuesday we could only get the application form - in Russian or Chinese. Next was the registration nightmare - another case of crazy Russian bureaucracy. Because we weren't staying in a hotel we had to do it ourselves.. and little info on the net. Finally found a hostel where the nice woman gave us the address to go to... took a while to find as ended up being in the basement of some apartment block, not looking at all like a government department, but managed to fill out the paperwork and pick it up the next day.

Wednesday we had our first cycle in Moscow - its not really done here and we were very unusual.. the flat is quite far north and it was a 2 hour ride into town. Also there are all these subways with stairs we have to use to cross busy roads - not cycle friendly at all but still enjoyed it! That evening we met Shurik who helped us interpret our visa forms, and had a few drinks with some of her friends and walked round Red Square at night. We were able to get our bikes on the Metro to get home as it was quiet...

The Metro does require a special mention - the stations are known as peoples palaces and you really do feel like you are in a grand castle or museum with some of them, big chandeliers, mosaics (of a soviet nature) and big open spaces. Very cool.

Another cycle back to the Chinese Embassy the next day, told to return day after to collect! Then took our bikes along the river and towards the big Cathedral and the Kremlin, also passed the grandiose St Peter the Great statue. It was nice to have the bikes to see the city from all sides, and got to swerve in and out of barely moving cars to get home!

Got to visit the Chinese Embassy for the 4th and last time, and yay! a visa! But had missed the opening time for the Mongolian Embassy. We went to go find a bike shop in another part of town. Navigating in Moscow is a challenge - its so big and even though Tabs was getting good at reading Cyrillic the map needed translation! Finally got across to the guy we were after cardboard bike boxes and then had a fun time taking them home on the Metro!

For the weekend we were invited to go to the 'village' - to stay at another friend Shoots family house in the country. Its fairly common for Russians to have these second holiday homes to visit and grow food etc. An hour on the train and we were in rural Russia. Then a 30 minute walk passing the ski resort and to the house in a small community of other similar homes, lots of fruit trees. Also had its own small kiosk for essentials in the middle of no-where!

All headed out into the forest to drink red wine by the fire... then had to find our way back in the dark! Unfortunately the rain came over night so spent the next day indoors reading, watching films, drinking tea and beer etc very chilled out. Had to get up super early on Monday to catch the train back to the big smoke, and off to the Mongolian Embassy for our transit visa. Much more straightforward - forms in English and pick up same day! Tuesday we went to the train station and managed to get tickets for that evening to St Petersburg as we were keen to visit it for a couple of days. Also found a second hand English book shop to stock up for the Trans Siberian..

Should also say that this past weekend marked the very sudden seasonal change into winter. The first week we were in singlets and picinicing in the park - then it just got freezing and the winds very icy. They don't do Autumn in Moscow! Another nice night chilling at the flat then to catch our 1am night train.. had brought the more expensive 'kupe' ticket though so had a bed. Amazing Anton was yet again at the station to meet up in St P, after moving there from Moscow himself. We went to a friend, Veronika's, flat in the centre for coffee then for a great guided walking tour of the town, went to see an old squat for artists Across the river and round past big old fancy buildings and churches, it was very cold and a bit grey but still grand looking. To a small Chinese restaurant for a cheapo lunch then to the State Museum which is more of an art gallery. Had a intriguing exhibition focussing on the concept of the Black Box... hard to describe but pretty cool. Checked out the cities new 'beach bar' craze and then to a tucked away cafe down alley ways and up stairs, squeezed in on the roof to drink lots of tea and meet some more people. Back to Veronikas for more drinking in a warmer environment...

Next day Anton and Veronika came with us to see Kronstadt Island, in the Baltic inlet just out from St Petersburg. First stop a cake shop for yummy and very beautifully crafted goodies! Then a stroll round the coast - first time we had seen the sea since the G8 in Germany! Had fun just hanging out, pretty quiet place. Then a big race to get back - took the boat to the mainland and then buses and metro.. grabbed our stuff and to the train with seconds to spare! This time we went budget in the 'platskarty', like a big dorm room. Managed to get beds right next to a loud snorer. And arrived at 4.30am in dark wet Moscow with an hour till the metro :(

Back to the flat and to sleep! Later in the day just did some errands in the local neighbourhood, nice shopping at the fresh produce stalls where people bring in their goods from the country.

Friday another night full of 'Russian Tradition' and socialising! Saturday more of the same, all went to town to meet others and drink.. then to an anarchist venue for some hardcore... mostly hung outside though, met lots of people from No Borders...

When we talk to Russian activists they are always curious what things are like in England, especially regarding Nazi's, skinheads and the cops. It amazes them (and us) that its relatively not a problem there whilst here its a constant battle and something that often results in violence... self defence or not it seems like being an anarchist in Russia is totally different than anywhere else, and thus they are a very close knit community and really into the 'whole lifestyle', don't know if I can describe it very well!

Lots of 'crusty punks' stayed over that night, the house really full next morning! Rest of Sunday spent watching cartoons (in Russian!) a favourite anarchist pass time here!

Our last full day in Moscow and we decided we should go finally see the Kremlin. But was a bit disappointing - lots of buildings were closed and not that much to see. Few more missions then back for our last night - and a party was of course in store! The vodka was free flowing, complete with the snacks that follow, and had a great night with everyone, dressing up and being silly... have made so many cool mates here over the couple of weeks!

Tuesday, departure day, thank goodness the train wasn't till 9.30pm as Tabs especially feeling rather ill. Some Russian medicinal soil seemed to help. Got food supplies and packed up everything... had lots of help again getting to the station, just as well as so much stuff!! Took our bikes apart and put them in boxes on the platform and enjoyed some final beers with the mammouth crowd of 15 or so who had come to send us off...

OK, so now the story gets interesting!! the train arrived and we all went to find our carriage. It was a Chinese train with Chinese staff though, so when we produced our tickets we were at a complete loss when the guard just looked at it and said 'no'. WHAT??!!!! What do you mean 'no?!' but couldn't get anything more from him. All turned to chaos with everyone trying to work out what was going on. Then someone noticed the ticket had the date a week before on it - 'ahhh! You were on the train a week ago! You've missed it!!!' I felt sick. But also knew we had checked them thoroughly... hang on.... these are our St Petersburg tickets!!! AHHH!! The truth dawned and we soon found the correct, Beijing tickets, the new carriage number and quickly on the move again.

So, gave the new guard the right tickets and got ready to put the bike boxes on board. A shake of the head 'no' he said - no boxes on the train. WHAT??!! But these are our bikes, we need them!! How much money to get them on? Bikes go on this train, what do you mean no? But no English or Russian meant we didn't get far... exasperation set in again and I was ready to curl up and cry... then another guard came along, saw our bikes were inside and suddenly it was all OK and the guard smiled and even helped us get them on the train!!! Man it was a crazy stressful half hour but we were eventually bikes and all on the right train! Big goodbyes to everyone, really was sad to have to leave and hope we can return to see everyone again. Biggest thanks to Lida, Dodik, Shurik and everyone else, we loved Moscow and meeting you all!! RUSSIAN TRADITION!!!