It was mighty good to step off that train, thats for sure!! Remember why we cycle now. First thing we noticed was the heat, much more humid and sticky hot. Lugged all our gear around the station, finding baggage claim and Yippee!! Our bikes were there waiting for us! We were a little worried but they arrived safe and sound if not a tad dusty. Found the hostel OK thanks to a fellow local cyclist. No rooms available but struck a sweet deal - could stay on the couch for free!! Fine by us! Shower and a walk around town. Really resorty and lots of holiday makers, mostly Chinese and not really our thing - still, nice lake and river and the karst rock formations are amazing. Had a cheapo meal with the locals served up in a bowl covered in a plastic bag so no washing required. Hmm. Then we treated ourselves - went and had an amazing massage to help get rid of our aching backs after the hard seats on the train.. 45 mins of slightly painful and intense but rewarding massaging for just under 3 quid. Bargain.
Then we caught up with Lena and Josie, German sisters we met at Leo's in Beijing, and their couchsurfing host and friends.. saw us it the slightly bizarre situation of drinking German beer in China with Japanese..
There was a catch with the free bed deal - woken up at 6.45am before any of the (paying) guests came down.. ah well, got us up and on the road. After a confusion with the ring road (haven't we been here before?!) We were off - on a big busy road for a bit not really liking it but soon we turned off and were in beautiful country by the river, rice paddies, water buffalo, karst mountains.. small villages and rural life..
After a while the road off turned into a dirt track, uphill. Went up and up and in the heat of the day it was a toughie, then had Chinese motorbike tourers stop and take a million pictures of us not really looking our best but guess they were impressed! The climb was well worth it, got right up into the mountains and amazing views. Round a corner and we were struck with a scene of high karsts jutting out from a lake and a tiny village all the way below us. Incredible. The whole day was one of constant amazement at the wide open spaces, mountains, the little villages and cute kids saying 'hello' to us.. not so good was our lack of supplies esp water, few shops on the road but with the heat too Tabs got a bit dehydrated. Also didn't help that we weren't exactly sure where we were on the map and how far away we were to our destination. All worked out perfect in the end though, down the hill and round the bend into Xingping and straight to find this cool cafe 'This Old Place' which we had just learnt was owed by a couchsurfing host. Met Lui and his wife, both lovely people and totally made our day with yummy food and a cold beer! They offered their place for us to stay the night, so grateful! Enjoyed talking with them, esp as Lui has done quite a bit of cycling also.
After a much needed sleep we were up the next day for a quick look around the place. A small port town on the River Li, nice harbour area and a cool local market to get fresh fruit and vege. Goodbyes to our hosts and off along the sealed smooth flat road to Yangshou, a much easier day! Got to Fuli and to the river again for a look round and lunch at a place right on the water. Then took a boat across so we could cycle a small country road, stopped off for a cooling swim on the way.
Got to Yangshou in good time, rung up our contact Bason for the English college there we were couchsurfing with. Arrived all ready to help with the 'English Corner' and wot not only to find we managed to get there on Friday - just in time for the weekend!! Felt really stupid and bad cos had been totally up for helping, as it was they were cool, could still stay and help out on Monday. Also timed it right for dinner so went to eat at the communal cafe for staff and students. Our room was in a government owned block opposite the school, living with Bason and his granddad, nice place. Went to check out Yangshou - not quite the sleepy backpacker haven we had imagined, lots and lots of people, bright lights and pretty full on. Few main pedestrian streets lined with bars and restaurants and souvenir shops. Had a few drinks, preferring to buy from the shop and sit on the bridge and people watch from there!
On Saturday we did lots of jobs and missions like photos onto CD and replacing my tyre which had
totally split and worn away.. Also went away from the tourist streets to a local market for veges.
But have to admit we surcombed to having vege burger and chips instead of cooking - lots of Western
food here catering for travellers, and might be our last chance in a while to enjoy it!
Sunday we were invited along on the college outing, which just so happened to be a bike ride out in
the countryside! About 20 students as well as another volunteer and her son, and a guide. Taken along
some great small tracks and through cool little communities. Had lunch at a place on the river then
some of us went swimming (we were the only girls in the water!) and playing on the bamboo rafts! Great
fun! Back along the river and rice paddies past 'Moon Hill' (cos the hole in the rock is completely
round) and into town, pretty long and hard day but really enjoyable and some nice chats with the
students too.
Monday morning was Internet missioning getting this website slightly up-to-date (hope you appreciate it!). In the afternoon we were asked to give a 'speech' to the students, talked about our trip and reasons for cycling etc. and after dinner we hung out at English Corner to chat more socially. Nice to spend time with Chinese and hear their thoughts and opinions on things.. also got them to help us with some Chinese phrases to use on the trip! So a nice stay in Yangshou, but time to get going again...