We left Yangshuo in the direction of Nanning, armed only with an undecipherable chinese script map and a vague notion that a town circled on the map was a cool place to visit. Not having much else to go on we headed in the direction of this tip off location. Passing through Lipu, a busy industrial town we were assisted in ordering lunch from a street cafe by Falcome, a friendly local who spoke a bit of english. We sat and chatted to him whilst eating and he insisted on paying. We came to the conclusion that Lipu is a really friendly town when a guy we asked for directions jumped into his car and waved his arm wildly out the window to show us where to turn, then waited on the roundabout to ensure we went the right way!
Since Yanshuo we had been travelling on a major road, but after lunch we turned onto a smaller road marked in brown on our map. The trusty map showed this road leading us in a straight line 40km to our destination. How deceiving this inoccuous straight brown line was!!!
Apparently if you take a 65km road that continually winds in "S" shapes up mountains more than a mile high, and then represent it on a map it will look like a short straight road. Some kind of cartographical sick joke!
It became obvious we were not going to reach our destination that day and by some miracle we found a hidden flat area big enough to pitch the tent overnight. The whole next day was spent riding uphill on a gravel track. We passed through the odd isolated village where people looked as supprised to see us as we were to be there, but apart from that we went miles without seeing another soul, nor any signs of habitation. And we really were following a road cut into the top of the mountains. It was really amazing to be up there, but a bit disconcerting that we hadn't expected it and didn't know how long the mountains carried on for (it looked like forever from our vantage point).
At lunch time we reached an area where loads of funny mounds had been terraced to grow what we guessed was green tea. We were invited to eat lunch with the workers, but declined as it meant going back down the hill some way.
Finally at about 6pm, after 12 hours almost non-stop cycling we caught a glimpse of Ginshan (not sure of spelling) below us, and descended the last few kilometers vowing make sure we get a map with contour lines for Vietnam!
We easily found a hotel, and after washing the grime and sweat off, ate some well earned dinner and colapsed into bed.
Ginshan had been recomended to us a place where some of China's ethnic minority people live. In the mountains on the way there we had seen many of them, identifiable by the colourfull needlework hats and bands worn by the women. In the town the next morning we stopped at the street market where many of the women were selling traditional medicines and needlework. We bought some of the beautiful coulourful bands from them, direct from the craftsladies.
With the grueling experience of the epic uphill gravel track struggle still fresh in our minds (and our calves!) we set off out of Ginshan on the sealed road. A glorious 25km descent awaited us, on oh-so-smooth tarmac! We pedalled untill it started getting dark and camped in a sugar cane plantation, in the shade of tall bamboo trees.
After startling some farm workers when we emerged from the sugar cane early in the morning we joined a major road heading south. It was quite grim; really dusty and lots of trucks, with endless sugarcane on either side. We got to a town that might be called Wuxnan, and decided we would try to reach a something that might be a national park marked on our map. the first 30km was freshly tarmaced, but with very little traffic...perfect. Until we got to the bottom of the big mountain where they were still building the road. Not really wanting a repeat of indefinitely traversing mountains on stony roads we sheepishly turned back. Watching the people carrier get stuck and start wheel spinning on the precarious track affirmed our decision.
So instead of going to what might be a national park we took another gamble and followed some signs we had seen pointing to Bai Ya Grand Canyon. They led us 20km up a dead end road through brilliant green rice paddies and red mud brick villages. We were keeping an eye out for camping spots as it was getting late, but every square inch of flat ground was being cultivated, gardened or built on. Just as it got dark we reached the end of the road and our saviour awaited. The Grand Canyon had a massive grassy car park and some friendly proprietors who were not phased by our request to camp on their car par, and even bought us little chairs to sit on and a light to cook by. Its funny how often stuff like that works out!
We explored the Grand Canyon the next morning, a beautiful forested valley with loads of waterfalls and supprised the few other Chinese visitors by swimming in the waterfall. A break from cycling more than a rest though, we still hiked about 5km around the steep valley. Also saw a real life scorpian with a long sting tail and pincers which was exciting. Just did a short (30km) ride to Wuxnan in the afternoon and booked into a hotel feeling pretty tired.
The remaining two days we powered out 250km to reach Nanning, the first on small country roads and the second on a highway that took us through some mountains. Had a great experience (and stroke of luck) being put up by a local Chinese lady when we couldn't find a hotel. She fed us and gave us hot water to wash and kept phoning her neice to relay messages in english to us!
NANNING
So, just a quick write up about the glorious city that is Nanning. Had to come here
to get our Vietnamese visa otherwise it really has no special features drawing
travellers here - just a big, modern crazy Chinese city. On the plus side not all
touristy and OK place to chill for a few days. Checked in to a cheap hotel famous
(in the Lonely Planet) for being like a giant hospital. It was very ward like with
long corridors and to top it off the staff wear a funny nurse like uniform. Nice view
from our 5th floor room. First night wandered around eating from all the night street
snacks - yummy spring onion pancakes (we got addicted), pickled somethings, hot corn
juice, fresh pineapple...
Next day off to the embassy and pretty straightforward. Cool. Found a big market that kinda sucked us in with its array of things, best of all we could climb up to the roof for views of the city. Also stoked to find WD40 the cyclists friend after giving up hope of finding it in China. Another great find after wandering the local streets was the meat substitute vegetarian/Buddhist shop, so stocked up on our mock meat supplies.
In the afternoon we headed down to the park to do some serious bike cleaning. All was going OK until we were set to leave and I realised my bag I had beside me on the ground was gone. There were lots of people all around looking at us (not unusual!) but no one stopped them... funny though cos from initially being really screwed someone pointed to a bush nearby where my wallet was lying, all but the money still there - lost 500RBM, about $100 / 30 pounds so not too bad I guess. Then went to look around and someone else pointed over to a tree where my bag and everything else were, so obviously people knew something. One guy really nice and phoned the police who arrived and explained what had happened, then to the station, waited for an English speaking policeman and filled out lots of forms etc... did get to have dinner at the staff kitchen with the coppers though! Lesson really well learnt and at least my passport was with the Vietnamese embassy and my camera and phone were at the hotel... and got all but the money back. Guess just complacent after so long with no troubles so good to be reminded! And then with all the commotion I lost a joining link from my chain as I was putting it back on, searched the area to no avail. Alas not a good trip to the park.
Coming out of the police station a girl came up asking if we lived in Nanning and knew of any nightlife or bars.. no but we were happy to have a drink with her! So went on a group mission that ended up being a taxi ride to a so-called 'bar' a flash kinda surreal joint but sat outside for one and had a chat. Helen (from Preston, UK) has been teaching English elsewhere in China for a year, great to talk and swap stories etc. Down the road to a more local place for another beer shouting over the screams of a crazy Chinese hand betting game next to us. Called it a night and back to the hotel.
Today we pick up the visas and set off for Vietnam tomorrow... can't wait! Keep ya's posted!
Top 5 things seen on a bike in China:
Basically, if you can get it on a bike, anything goes in China..
so why do people think we're so strange?!