Nimb Binh

Nimb Binh and Cuc Phoung National Park
We were rather pleased to see that the rain had eased the next morning in Nimb Binh - so we could go and explore the sights! On our bikes down the road a way and to the rather touristy set up that is Tam Coc. Here we brought a ticket for a boat trip down the famous river known as 'Halong Bay of the rice paddies'. It was the 2 of us and 2 Vietnamese rowers, bit of a funny situation but there was a paddle for us so we chipped in too. Slow going but lovely scenery - more of those karsts we are so fond of and even grotto's that the boat goes through and out the other side. Lots of other punters on the water and there was the almost compulsory purchase of embroidery from the lady rower - but still a nice experience.

Back to dock and get our bikes then continued up an extremely muddy (thanks to a new road in progress) road to see Bich Dong Pagoda, built in to the cave on the side of a mountain. Pretty impressive but the view from the climb up behind it gave it a run for its money - panoramic of rice paddies and karsts, beautiful stuff. After lunch with some slightly over friendly locals (they are quite into marrying us off over here!) we continued to another old temple. Here a monk showed us round and let us both have a go on his traditional string instrument - we were naturals!

Back to town and a look round the market - they are always the liveliest of places and a great place for street snacks, mmm deep fried banana!

We visited it the next day for fresh baguettes and fruit, then also happened to chance upon the opening of Nimb Binh's first supermarket - what a fanfare! Kinda sad to see the transition but we did get mock meat supplies! On the road and stopped of at another tourist trap Hoa Lu, has lots of old temples and stuff (sorry, I'm getting a bit over it!) a shame because these places have so many people trying to sell us stuff it often detracts from the experience. I understand they are only trying to earn a living but that day I wasn't in the mood! So it was especially funny when we got back to find Tabs had a puncture! A crowd of about 15 surrounded us to watch the entertainment - bit more of a social environment and all very friendly if not extremely curious!

Onwards to Cuc Phoung. Managed to time the school leavers - millions of children to peddle along with us and practice their English! They all know a few basics and keen to come talk to us! Got to the park entrance just as it was getting dark, and luckily they were fine with us putting our tent up.

It would have been a nice peaceful night in the forest except that there was a gang of yet more school kids staying over too making noise like most teenagers do when they are away from home! But pleasantly surprised when they were OK with us lighting a fire - in a National Park and all! So able to cook up some food on a camp fire for the first time in a while. Next day we went to see the Endangered Primate Rescue Centre nearby. A guide took us through where they house Langurs (long tails), Gibbons (no tails, long arms) and a few other monkey type creatures! All totally cute and playful and often rescued from markets where they are being sold by poachers. Grrrrrh. Go to the Primate Centre for more.

Then said goodbye to our swinging friends and headed up the 20km to the centre of the park, really beautiful ride through lush forest and full of wildlife - plenty of butterflies. Here we pitched our tent again, had some lunch and then went on a walk around the forest. Again very beautiful and scenic but kinda disgusted by the amount of rubbish left everywhere, even with bins provided. Ah well. Saw the 'thousand year old tree' and some cool red squirrels (we think) playing in the tree tops. It was just us and another group of 3 for the night so a quiet meal and a quiet night.

Next day very special indeed, for Tabs turned the ripe old age of 27! Up to the sun coming out after a few days away so celebrated with a bit of sunbathing before heading back down the hill.

Unfortunately no secret unmarked short cut of a road existed between us and the Ho Chi Minh Highway only 10km or so to the north, so alas we had to retrace our steps and go out the 30km to the main road and join it later on. Ah well - nice to see it all again!

Had a big birthday feast at the park restaurant before we left, topped off with some interesting apricot liquor. The main road was actually quite pleasant so we stayed on it the rest of the day until we reached a fairly big sized town and decided to stop for the day and relax a little. Found a post office for calls home and some really good baguettes fresh from the oven... Not really a party town and seeing as Tabs had the sniffles anyways we are post phoning the real celebrations for later - instead we drank green tea and played cribbage before turning in for the night! Are we getting older or something!