We arrived in Jakarta late after 30 hours on the boat, but we weren't to be the only cycle tourers
on the boat! Small world co-incidences meant we met the French tandem riders again after first seeing
them at a train station in Russia as we were heading to Mongolia! So we ganged up and cycled together,
in the dark and in crazy traffic, into the center and crashed at a hostel for the night. Parted ways
the next day but might spot them again soon. We went off to meet our wonderful couchsurfing host Mega,
who was so kind and welcoming. We followed her back to her home through the madness that is Jakarta
traffic. The worst yet for crazy drivers and random obstacles at every turn, definitely an adrenalin
rush! So we left our bikes and went with Mega on the bus (also an eye opening experience) and to see
'Kota' the old town area. It was almost a ghost town with falling down Dutch colonial buildings. We
also got stuck into Indonesian food - Gado Gado (or Gado2 if you are lazy) is a great street vendor
meal of rice cake, veges and a peanut sauce.
Next day Mega helped us with our mundane missions of brake block buying and map purchasing, all had a
yummy lunch together and before we knew it it was time to say goodbye and ride to the train station..
Mega was a great introduction to Indonesia, and lots of fun. Took the over night train to Yogyakarta
arriving at the unsavory time of 4.30am but found an internet cafe till the world awoke and we could
go meet our next couchsurfing angel! Julie was a star to take us in so early on a Sunday morning,
showed us our lovely room and we all went back to bed! Later in the day we had a chat and a nice
dinner with another flatmate. She is from Norway working on emergency shelter and housing here in
Indonesia, totally amazing interested person to speak to. Next day we were up at the crack of dawn
to cycle up to Merapi - the volcano. Nice steady climb to the closest village, bit misty but nice
views of the top. Wizzed back down and into town for a look round and to try the local specialty of
cooked young jackfruit.
Following day we caught the bus to see Borobudur, a giant Buddhist temple that goes up in layers with
intricate carving all around it and many stupor's (bell shapes) on top housing Buddha's inside. Great
views from the top of the volcano and countryside. We also got asked to be in everyones photos - they
love to have foreigners in them for some reason - at least they ask which doesn't always happen. Back
in town we went to see a shadow puppet performance, all in Javanese but impressive puppets and full
live musical group in support.
Our cycle to Solo was the first long ride in a while, but it was a nice one broken up with checking out
the Hindu Prambanan temples and eating snacks from the road side! Couch surfing served us very well indeed
yet again as we went to stay with Miriam at her cool central city pad complete with very friendly neighbours.
From the States she is here studying Gamelan music and Indonesian dance - we were lucky to get private
viewings of both! She is one very cool chick and we all got on great - she also helped us see 'insiders
Solo' with drinking and music jamming sessions, market bargain hunting, several different cultural shows
and general shenanigans involving 'ceu' the local sugarcane spirit... She also came with us on a bicycle
tour with a guide who took us to see batik making, a tofu factory, cracker production, tempe fermenting,
'ceu' distilling, and Gamelan gong creating. Phew! It was incredible to see all the things being made
often at the backs of peoples homes in the village, all up close and with samples!
We were sad to leave Solo and Miriam but the clock is ticking - we have our flight booked from Bali to
Christchurch in 2 1/2 weeks! So it was off to Probolinggo by train and the madman attempt to cycle up to
another volcano - the famous Bromo. We had been warned it would steep and hard but we were up for a challenge.
It was a blisteringly hot day and I had allergies (excuses excuses!) but managed about 30km before flagging
down a lift. Tabs was a machine and kept going up ridiculously steep and windy roads till it got dark and a
lift took her the last 10km. Early to bed and early to rise - 4am to cycle and follow a dodgey trail up to a
lookout point. Words can not to justice in the slightest to the most spectacular view that greeted us as the
sun came up. Bromo and the two higher volcano's puffing away behind a wide open crater valley covered in
swirling mist. Breath taking. Stood in awe for ages - perfect thing to be doing for our one year anniversary!!
Yup, its been that long already!
Later on in the day after a nap we walked across the sand sea and up to the craters edge to see the smelly
sulpher clouds plumb out. Surreal landsacpe and kinda eerie! Then we got to cycle down the mountain - needless
to say much easier and faster! Stayed the night in Probolinggo before setting off towards Bali. Back on those
crazy roads but powered it out and managed to do over 100km to reach Jember, a sizable but non-touristy town.
The whole ride, like our entire stay in Indonesia we were met with calls of 'hello mister!' gets a little
tiresome after a while! The next day we were surprised to see some sort of demonstration out on the street -
after some explaining worked out it was for May Day - so joined in! Walked down the road until it was cut
short by the police and we were invited back to their student organisation offices to chat. Learnt a bit
about politics and protesting in Indonesia, nice to see it alive and well.